SAFETY AND COMBAT back

Basics

Combat in Berserkr must only take place with appropriate (“boffer”) weapons and packets. Light 45 to 90 degree weapon swings are usually safe hits. You may not use weapon-catching devices, completely hide behind shields (“turtling”), or shield bash during combat.

Legal Hits

Since safety is a prime concern, no hits that cause pain should be accepted. Those that do not hurt should always be accepted, wherever the blow lands, but never aim for potentially painful spots (head, crotch, spine, etc.). If your attacker is hurting you, tell them that they are swinging too hard/using an unsafe weapon and that you are not accepting their damage.

Safe Fighting

Some forms of fighting lead to dangerous situations and hits. These include jumping, turtling, and charging opponents.

Critical System

You may choose to use a system of modified damage based on location and potential power of hits. You should not actually swing harder, but rather wait longer as if “building up power.” You may not use this system to increase damage drastically (especially if your damage is low to begin with). I recommend no more than a modification of up to 1/3 your max, no more than 3, with 1 weapon under normal circumstances. If you choose to use this system you must use it for more AND less damage, not just more. This may also be used by a defender based on hit location. Some creatures will not take effect from criticals, notably Elementals. Also, many fighter abilities are known as “Criticals,” these are different than critical damage.

Weapon Construction

When constructing Berserkr-safe weaponry, the foremost thing to keep in mind is safety. This is because we don’t want any unsafe weapon-related injuries. Most melee weapons are built with ½” or ¾” PVC, or “Ultra Light” cores (such as graphite/fiberglass, these non-PVC cores must be noted at the safety check) and insulating closed-cell pipe foam 5/8”+ thick walls. Latex weapons are rarely allowed. Rubber-like insulation is never allowed by itself, there must be closed cell foam. It is important that you get the correct size of foam; if the foam is too tight the weapon will NOT pass inspection. If it is too loose, a smaller section of foam should be cut out and put inside along with the core, to make sure it doesn’t rattle much. You will also need duct tape (some prefer to use fabric rather than tape). Any type or colour will do, though avoid the extra thick kind (silver “Duck” brand is too rigid). Most weapons are silver, black, or brown, while some claw physreps are red. Painting weapons is discouraged (kinds that wont make the weapon rigid and hilt designs are allowed). Ace Hardware carries all of the needed materials except foam. Weapon quality foam can be purchased from www.larpware.com. You’ll also find a box cutter to be handy, though scissors work. You will also need a saw/PVC cutter unless you have Ace cut it into the sizes you need. Cut the shaft of core 6” less then you want the weapon (more for thrusting [spear] weapons) for room for the tips. Electrical tape both open ends of the core. For a basic sword, take a shaft of foam 1” longer then the “blade” of the weapon will be. Slide it down leaving 1” extra foam at the end and secure it with duct tape. Cut a 1” piece of foam off & in half, roll it up and put it in the end of the foam. Tape it shut. Cut one piece of foam about 6” and put a hole in the middle lengthwise. Slide this on leaving enough room at the end for your hand and a waylay tip and tape it there. Add a piece of foam 1” beyond the other end of the weapon after leaving grip room, similarly stuffing & taping the end (waylay tip). Now add 2” soft, squishy open-cell foam tips on the ends (weather stripping). You can find open-cell foam in craft or fabric stores and some hardware stores. Cover the weapon with duct tape laying the tape lengthwise down the “blade” (make the fabric into a somewhat tight fitting). Do not compact the squishy open-cell foam with the duct tape. Wrap electrical tape around the handle for grip. You now have a complete basic sword. Test it out for general safety. Do not swing hard.

Shields must be at padded at least 1” (preferably 2”) around the rim and not have anything hard sticking out the front. A shield can be up to around 3’ (36”) max dimension (9 sq ft max) but it really all depends on over all area & its size compared to yours (being no more than about half your height or so). Anything too big will be a 2 handed shield. Only shields made by weapon safety standards may be used to hit anyone. Round shields are encouraged.

Thrown weapons may not have PVC in them (aside from a small, well padded & secured weight), and should also have open cell tips (1/2”+). Damage is just like melee weapons. May not be used in melee unless approved (long enough not to punch someone)

Fist reps must be padded at least 1”, preferably with a layer of open cell on top of that. They must have a good grip (tennis racquet grip is suggested) so that the boffer part is not knocked aside while your actual fist keeps punching. These are usually made by making a square of PVC with L joints. Make sure all joints are properly glued. Fists are 12” from grip to tip, claws are 12” from end to end, and may only be used to swing or stab (no punching without fist cover).

Packets have to be filled with some soft material (small birdseed without sunflower seeds or polyurethane plastic beads (beanbags) are the best materials), have a tail long enough to hold, & have a material heavy enough to fly when thrown. Arrow packets must have a string that’s long enough to be easily seen (beyond tail, 6” or so) tied around it. Packets should be bigger than a dime, smaller than 2 quarters, and packed loose enough to be felt through.

Weapon Lengths (in inches):

(pole blades may not be more than ½ the total weapon size)

(grips may not be more than ¼ the total weapon size)

Type	Min length	Max length	Min pole blade	Max pole blade	Max grip
Small	6	24	3	12	6
Short	24	36	6	18	9
Long	36	48	9	24	12
2 hand	48	72	12	36	18
Bow	24	72	-	-	15

Weapon Damage:

Size	Bludgeon	Sword/Pole
Small	1	2
Short	2	3
Long	3	4
2-hand	4	5

**bow damage falls under separate rules

Berserksgang

When prompted to fight with good reason (usually extreme anger over something in specific linked to your History), one may enter a berserk rage by calling out “Berserk,” gaining 10 Body, 10 Attack, 10 Defense, 3 Strength, and 4 Ripping Strength (allows a character to rip free from bindings up to 4xp in a 3-count). During this time you may only fight madly & wildly (no casting, production, etc.). A berserk is immune to all mind controlling effects (charm, fear, confusion, hallucinate). It lasts as long as reasonably necessary (usually until the end of a fight, but not for searches). Upon stopping you take the effect of weakness. You lose any of the 10 extra Body remaining and all other stats gained from the rage. The Weakness lasts for the amount of time spent in berserksgang (minimum 1 minute), and for another of that time, you will be reduced to walking speed and ½ Attack, Defense & Strength. After this time stats return to normal (any Body down is still down). You will not remember things clearly during the berserksgang or the first weakness. You may not berserk soon after another one or if you are Weakened, unconscious (duh), etc.