PILUM 12/8/13
The javelin or pilum
consists
of a long iron head with a small point, and a wooden
shaft. On
the
most common type, the bottom of the head widens into a flat
tang, which
is riveted into the widened top of the wood shaft. The
second
type
has a socketed head, and a third type, less well-known, has
a spike
tang.
In the first century AD, some tanged pila are shown with a
spherical
weight,
presumed to be lead, behind the joint block.
Apparently the
weapon
had become lighter over the centuries, and the weight was
added to
increase
its "punch". Pilum heads are 14" to 30" long, with pyramidal or barbed points c. 2" long. The iron shanks are about 1/4" thick (round) below the point, swelling to c. 3/8" or 1/2" square at the base. The tang is an inch or more wide, and can be rectangular or slightly flaired. (Before forging the tang, it's a good idea to fold up c. 6" of the shank, then flatten, to strengthen the tang and allow more width.) There is no evidence that the points were specially hardened--they penetrate simply due to their shape. Likewise, the iron shank cannot really be described as "soft", it bends on impact because it is thin. The wood shaft is
made
all in one
piece, generally ash, though oak or hickory are also
acceptable.
Overall it is 4 to 5 feet long,
making
the complete weapon 5-1/2 to 7 feet in length. Most
of the
length
(or all of it, for a socketed pilum) is round in section,
about 7/8" to
1-1/8" in diameter. At the top of the top of the
shaft is the
tapered,
square-section "joint block", 5" to 8" long. It is
slotted to
receive
the tang, and capped with an iron ferrule or collett which
is secured
by
2 little iron wedges. (Since the ferrule is also
tapered, it
works
best to allow a little of the wood to project above it, to
be splayed
out
by the wedges.) Two or three rivets hold the tang in
place; a
socketed
head needs only a small nail. All iron parts of the
pilum
should be
black from the forge, imitated if necessary by heating the
piece and
wiping
it with oil. The buttspike is a cone made by
wrapping a triangle
of sheet steel (20-gauge). The point is sometimes
hammered into a
square-section spike, but the seam is usually not forged
shut. It
is secured to the shaft with a small nail. The head
can be
riveted
to the shaft with regular nails if you first heat the
heads red hot and
give them a few raps with a hammer to make them look
forged. Use
a washer at both ends of the nail and peen the end flat
like a regular
rivet. Washers can be cut from blackened sheet steel
with a cold
chisel; round washers can be used but first remove any
galvanization
and
blacken them. The wood may be treated with linseed oil, but should not be stained. An ash 2x2 can be worked down to the proper shape by first sawing the shaft section down to 1" square, then using a drawknife and rasp to round it. Then saw the joint block to its desired shape. Starting with a hole-digger handle--mostly round with a square-section end--is another option. |
Click on the image at
left for
a larger version. The junction blocks of two pila are
shown,
one with two rivets and one with three. Next to them
is an
unmounted
pilum head showing the flat tang, as well as a ferrule, two
nails with
forged heads, washers, and a buttspike of wrapped sheet
steel (3-3/4"
long).
At right is a
typical
point, roughly
full size. Below is a socketed pilum head by Mark
Morrow (click
for
a larger view). It is 24" long and weighs about 12
ounces. If your pilum head
bends
when thrown (as it should!), and you wish to avoid
stressing and
eventually breaking the metal by simply bending it
straight again, heat
the bend red-hot with a propane torch or in a forge, and
quickly hammer
it back into shape. Do not quench it in water to
cool it!
(See the page on Armoring Hints.)
A couple original
pilum
heads can be seen here: http://www.romancoins.info/MilitaryEquipment-spear.html. |
Finally, no matter what the
javelin
hit, its iron shank was supposed to bend, if only a little, so
that an
enemy could not throw it back. When the Romans were finished
winning
the battle they could gather their pila and straighten them.
Back in the early Republic,
c.
5th
to 4th century BC, the pilum was made in "heavy" and "light"
versions.
The light one seems to have been the socketed style, with a long
narrow
iron shank and a small point, with a socket at the bottom to
connect to
the wooden shaft. The heavy version generally had a shorter,
stouter
iron shank with a barbed head, widening at the base into a large
flat
tang which was solidly riveted into block at the top of the wooden
shaft. By about the 2nd century BC or so, the tanged variety also
has a
version with a longer, slimmer iron shank like the light pilum,
though
it seems the overall construction was still "heavy". The
general
concept was to throw
the light pila first, probably at a range of about 30 yards, then
the
heavy ones just before the final
charge. The men farther back in the ranks may have held onto
theirs at first, and moved up to the front as the men who started
there
got tired and moved back to rest.